Mum, Dad and Peter (aged 12) cycling the HCW in July 2007
In 2006 we cycled the C2C so we thought we knew what we were letting ourselves in for. Armed with a Sustrans map and lots of useful information from the HCW website we set off.
Getting There
We cycled from home to catch the train up the West Coast Line (Lancaster to Carlisle via Barrow-in-Furness). You can’t book bikes on the train, they only take 2 bikes per train and there were 3 of us but we thought we would go for it anyway. At Arnside station the train arrived 40 minutes late and was packed – standing room for sardines only. The helpful guard suggested we catch the next train to Barrow-in-Furness as it was a bigger train and had plenty of room, then wait for the next train to Ravenglass. We took his advice and waited for an hour on the platform in Barrow (café was closed) to catch the last train of the day up the coast. This train was also packed with space for only a few sardines. The very helpful guard said he would fit us on the train somewhere – he wouldn’t leave cyclist behind. So we squashed on. At Ravenglass the rain started as we cycled to the Roman Bath House. A little exploration of the site and we felt ready for our journey. As we had been unable to find accommodation in Ravenglass we cycled to Holmrook and stayed at the Lutwidge Arms Hotel www.Lutwidgearms.co.uk which was very comfortable.
Ravenglass Roman Bath HouseThe Beginning!
Day One
After a Full English Breakfast we enjoyed a lovely cycle ride up the coast. The shore paths, lanes and old railway lines were great to cycle on and were well signed. We struggled around Flimby, as others seem to have, but we eventually found the shore path and cycled on into Maryport. In Maryport we didn’t see any of the helpful 72 markers but as we had been before we found our way through. There are some seats made out of stone between mile markers 25 and 27, try them out they are so comfy.
Day Two
From Maryport we found our own way along the prom and lanes until eventually we spied a 72 marker near Old Kiln and knew we were following HCW. We really enjoyed the cycling along lanes, I think the area around Tarns Dub gets the prize for the most cow muck ever on a road, still it all flew off the bikes as we speed downhill! Cycling along the Solway Coast was fantastic, hardly any traffic and beautiful countryside. We had our evening meal at the King’s Arms, Bowness, (we highly recommend the food and drink for value and quantity), it was great to see walkers coming in the pub after finishing the Hadrian’s Wall walk to collect their stamps and certificates. We stayed at Highfield Farm www.highfield-holidays.co.uk at Burgh by Sands.
Day Three
Another large breakfast then on to the bikes. We found the route easy to follow around Carlisle and lovely surrounding countryside. I feel I must warn everyone about the suicidal rabbits in the area between the 100 and 101 mile markers, they just run out in front of you and twice it was nearly rabbit pie for tea. We really enjoyed seeing Lanercost Priory in the distance and knowing we were soon going to be cycling by it, the Priory was built with stones taken from Hadrian’s Wall. It was great to get to Banks and see our first large section of The Wall. We then cycled on to Haltwhistle where we stayed at Wydon Farm www.wydon-haltwhistle.co.uk which was a little tricky to find but well worth it when we got there.
Lanercost PrioryDay Four
This was going to be our short cycling day so we could visit some of the Roman sites as we headed for Hexham. After leaving the fabulous B & B our son decided to investigate the cattle grid very closely, the cattle grid came off better with Peter having a huge bruised cheek and black eye (no damage to the bike, thank goodness). So we called into Haltwhistle’s chemist shop and a café until we felt ready to hit the road again (not literally, of course). Next stop Vindolanda, we spent all afternoon there it was really interesting and definitely worth a visit. That night we stayed at Carraw B & B www.carraw.co.uk which was a little off the route but as we had intended to visit Housesteads (we never had time due to the events of the morning) it seemed to be a good choice. It was great cycling along the military road, there was a bit of traffic, a lot of ups and downs and plenty of walkers on the paths at the side who all shouted “Hello”.
Vindolanda (not our B & B!)Day Five
A fantastic day cycling to South Shields. A lovely route, well signed and fun. It began to rain as we approached Newcastle so we debated whether to go the South Shields. We were so glad we did. To stand by the sign that says you have reached to finish of the HCW was fantastic. We then caught the ferry back to North Shields and cycled to Whitley Bay to stay with family.
The Finish at Arbeia Roman Fort and MuseumThe End!
We had set off in the rain at Ravensglass and finished in the rain at South Shields but the rest of the ride had been in perfect weather.
The Journey Home
We cycled back to Newcastle to catch the train to Carlisle. No problem on this train with the bikes, we had done this bit last year and also had had no problem. A change of train at Carlisle where we had booked the bikes on the Virgin train (West Coast Main Line, you have to book bikes on these trains) to take us back to Oxenholme (Cumbria). The station staff warned us that the train was extremely busy and we had to assure them that we had booked the bikes on to the train. The compartment for the bikes was full of luggage so we had to stand in the corridor with our bikes, luckily we only had about a 45 minute journey. A short cycle ride home and what a fantastic holiday.
Total cycling time (including cycling to and from home) 31 hours, travelling 227 miles with an average speed of 7.3 miles per hour, the fastest speed was 35.6 miles/hour.
Now I’m off to order my HCW T-shirt from www.walk-the-wall.com and to plan next year’s route – W2W.
