Now, what was this route called?
The Pennine Cycleway
Derby to Slaithwaite September 9th/10th 2004
- by Paul Brooking

In July 2003 I had a wonderful three days riding the northern section of the PCW as part of the inaugural Derby to Berwick ride. Joining the group at Appleby I hovered around the fringes for three days of superb cycling. During the ride I met Dik who runs this excellent site and the equally good www.c2c-guide.co.uk. Foolishly I promised to help complete a set of journals covering the entire route from Derby to Berwick. So this ride had three driving forces:

1 - Do it, because it’s there!
2 - I want to join up all the links in the ride for my own satisfaction
3 - To write this journal; unfortunately you can’t make it up or other cyclists complain! These are my observations and criticisms of a part of Route 68. It’s my experience; hopefully this journal will pass on a little knowledge to others who use the route. There is criticism, don’t be put off by this, completing Route 68 is a real challenge but there is no point in disguising current shortfalls on the ride. I am confident Sustrans will put these right in time. This is a great ride, DO IT but be prepared for real frustration in some areas.

Preparation
My thoughts on the equipment and clothing to carry are outlined in the journal for the northern section. Having ridden from Derby to Slaithwaite I would emphasize the need for correct clothing. During summer 2004 I made two abortive attempts to begin my ride, both abandoned before leaving home as the weather, or the weather forecast was so appalling. Whilst not a fair-weather cyclist I saw no rationale for heading into the Pennines in rain with winds forecast at 12-15mph. The first week of September brought glorious sunshine, 25C and almost windless days, to the UK. Seizing the opportunity I booked my train ticket on the Tuesday night before setting off on the Thursday. Apologies for rambling here, I like to set the scene, now back to clothing. I was amazed by the temperature changes I encountered from valley bottom to moor top. Halfway up some climbs you will bathed in sweat, literally from every pore, only to find you are cold. Ridiculous? Yes. True? Yes. In the section from the end of the Longenden Trail to Hebden Bridge be sure to have the right clothing available for quick changes. You need breathable layers, the weather in the Pennines can change quickly; 25C in the valley bottom, cold on the moor top. If conditions are rough in the valley bottom be wary of what you will encounter on the hilltop. I don’t have waterproof trousers but these would be a good investment. I didn’t take leggings or arm warmers with me – this was a mistake and will definitely be packed for the next journey.

The Ride – Arriving in Derby
Nice place Derby, you’ll enjoy the city centre and may see a lot of it! Arriving at Derby railway station there are two exits, for Pride Park and the City Centre. In the first mile or two you will see plenty of signs for Pride Park, always go in the opposite direction, unless of course you follow Derby County. Leave the platform following the City Centre exit for the main station entrance. Here you will be met by a group of local Sustrans Rangers, who will give you detailed instructions on how to leave the city! The Rangers where there when I arrived, it’s very decent of Sustrans to arrange this service. The group of Sustrans Rangers I met were heading off on a days riding in Birmingham, they kindly gave me directions through the city and it was good to meet some of the local organisers for Route 68. There are a couple of lessons here; acknowledge and speak to fellow cyclists; it’s polite, we have the same objectives plus you pick up valuable local information. This may save many miles of frustration.

Before leaving Derby station check you have enough cash. The “hole in the wall” is the last you see, without a route diversion, until Buxton. In fact check you have everything you need before leaving Derby, on this first day you will not see a shop until Buxton. There aren’t many teashops either, frankly a bit of blow for this cyclist.

Once again Sustrans have forgotten to put up a sign at the railway station telling you where to go. I’ve experienced this before and find it amazing. The start of a major cycle route and there’s no signage! Sustrans please sort it out. Leave the station turning right, head to the first set of lights watching for the old red cycle route sign pointing right, this will take you on to Route 68, then bear left. After a short distance turn right over the white bridge and immediately left on the other side. There are plenty of signs on this section but many are for local riders and it’s hard to decide the direction to follow. At each point ride away from Pride Park following Little Eaton/City Centre. After a ½ mile you arrive on the city outskirts to find excellent signage for Route 68, Mackworth and Mickleover. After turning left at the bridge follow the river on your left, through a small park and arrive at a main road into the city. Turn left here, then left at the lights (50 metres), take the second exit off the roundabout (not signed until you get to the exit), head through the shopping/pedestrian area and keep straight on. Just past the City of Derby Information Office you see a partially obscured Route 68 sign – follow it!! You are now safe.

After winding through the terraced back streets of Derby we arrive at the ring road. Here the signs disappear, have been vandalized or I’m dumb. Could be any of the three. I chose to turn left using the cycle track adjacent to the ring road, this may be wrong but it did get me to Mickleover! Knowing the area and believing I was off route I decided to follow the ring road to a major intersection with a right turn for Mickleover Hospital. This will give you a mile of unpleasant, main road riding to Mickleover. At the first roundabout in Mickleover (Tesco on left), turn right down a long, straight road. After perhaps ½ mile Route 68 is signed to your left. With all the general mucking around and difficulty of leaving a major city allow 45 minutes ride time to Mickleover. I’m always surprised by how long it takes to get out of a large city or town.

Day One – Derby to Charlesworth

Distance - 68 miles
Ride time - 5 hours 41 minutes
On road - 10.00am to 6.15pm

Join the old railway track that skirts Mickleover, onto Etwall, Longford and eventually Ashbourne. This is a joy, wonderful, easy riding to Ashbourne and, from there, to Buxton. Enjoy today putting in as many miles as possible because you have tough riding in the days to come. Derbyshire County Council, thank you for the finest signing seen on a Sustrans route. Huge wooden signposts, with large Route 68 signs, greet you at every turn. This is how it should be. These new signposts also carry directions to local villages; hey, joined up thinking. Brilliant work and sincere thanks to all concerned. Enjoy this great signing as once you get to Buxton it deteriorates very rapidly into the worst signing of any Sustrans route I have ridden. Beyond Buxton there are some serious issues to be addressed on this aspect of the route. From Mickleover to Ashbourne the local authority have set a signage standard that should be the norm throughout Britain.

At the end of the railway track comes your first chance for a cup of tea. Turn into the Tara Buddhist centre and find the Ashe Hall café. You haven’t gone far but maybe you deserve a quick brew? Now follow the country lanes through Sutton, Longfordlane, Longford (watch for the beautiful converted mill to your right on entering the village), Rodsley and Wyaston. On the outskirts of Ashbourne the route drops round the back of and through a housing estate before turning right onto the main road. After perhaps 2-300 metres turn left. This is poorly signed and easy to miss, just follow the signs for the Leisure Centre. Through the car park, into the tunnel and suddenly you on the Tissington Trail.

At the southern end of the trail is a cycle hire shop, possibly tea and a bunch of friendly guys who run the cycle hire. I feel sure they would help with any minor repairs you might need. There is a sparsely stocked spares department, probably low on stock because I was riding in September. The cycle hire people have ridden Route 68 from here to Berwick, stop for a chat; you’ll pick up some useful tips.

It’s 10 years since I last cycled the Tissington Trail and I was delighted to find the trail surface has improved, it was good ten years ago, and even better today. The trail is a disused railway track and has a long, gentle gradient. This is easy climbing but you will climb steadily for miles along the Tissington and High Peak trails. On a hybrid, mountain bike or tourer easy stuff, on a road bike the surface could be tiring. Tissington Trail is a real joy; traffic-free for miles and miles, the only slight obstacles being walkers and other riders on this is a hugely popular route with people of all ages and abilities. Cycling this trail it is easy to forget there is plenty to see all around you, the views are spectacular but there are also pretty, almost forgotten villages to visit en route. These communities were served by the old railway and worth a diversion for the touristy bit. I visited Tissington itself and Hartington. Depending on your itinerary both would make good over-night stops, though there is still a long way to go! At Tissington you will know you have arrived at the site of the old station; there are lots of people, toilets and a great sandwich bar. Stop for lunch here or go a few hundred metres further, leave the trail and drop down into the beautiful village of Tissington. The village boasts the old hall to visit and the Old Coach House for a really good lunch – the cycling may be slower after this. There is one B&B at Overfield Farm - www.overfieldfarm.co.uk - I haven’t stayed here but it looks good.

A few miles further you reach Hartington, a larger but equally beautiful spot. If you plan just 30 odd miles a day Hartington makes a superb over-night stop…. good B&Bs, a pub, a few shops and The Cheese Shop (mmmmm). There is a youth hostel in the village that looked very comfortable and I can vouch for the pub from previous visits. The Old Vicarage used to be an excellent B&B but I don’t know if it’s still open. Two warnings, Hartington is at the bottom of a hill, and not just any old hill, so be prepared for a grind to get out again. The village is a tourist trap, don’t forget to book accommodation - www.cressbrook.co.uk/hartingt/dovearea.htm

Riding on to Parsley Hay you reach the start of the High Peak Trail. The cycle hire shop has a good range of spares, lots of local information, friendly people and good food. Another lunch spot. From Parsley Hay continue to the end of the High Peak, go through a gate and turn sharp left up a difficult track. The loose surface is made up of largish limestone; anything other than an MTB will have to walk or risk falling off. It’s only around a ¼ mile so don’t grumble, you are about to hit a magnificent bit of riding down into Earl Sterndale. It’s one of those roads you can see and think “I’d like to be on there” –all of a sudden you will be.

Earl Sterndale is notable for two things; a wonderful descent into and through the village followed by a nerve jangling moment as you suddenly reach the crossroads at the bottom of the hill! The other thing, the pub name is improbable – have a ride out there and find out why. There’s an even more improbably named one in Slaithwaite.

Hit the crossroads and turn right taking careful note of the 10% gradient sign, it applies to the road joining from your right not to you. Also note there are no Sustrans signs at this crossroads, straight on or left will put you in the middle of nowhere. Enjoy the quiet ride to within a ½ mile of Harpur Hill because you are about to re-enter the real world, traffic and very big cement wagons thunder along the road from Harpur Hill, do take care. You will find your first shop here or you can whizz down the hill straight into the centre of Buxton.

Buxton is a pretty little place. I’m always overwhelmed by the bustle and noise of even the smallest town when I’m on these rides but Buxton is well worth a stop and a wander. There will be plenty of choice for accommodation and eating. I feel sure lots of PCWers will make this an overnight stop. The signage in Buxton is poor; to leave the town you basically go straight through following signs for the Pavilion Gardens and then the A5004 to Whaley Bridge and New Mills. Leaving the town you pass the sign A5004 Long Hill – it is, but it’s short on this side and long on the descent! Wheeeee. Half way up the hill Sustrans direct you to the right onto a gated road. The first ½ mile is tarmac, after this you reach a deeply rutted track. This track is impossible to ride. If, like me, you’re wearing cleats and carrying your bike take care, it’s easy to slip and fall.

After 200 metres walking and a bruised knee I gave up, studied my map and headed back down to the A5004 to ride into Whaley Bridge where you easily pick up the route at a number of points. Without knowing what is on the other side of the gated road I think Sustrans have got this bit wrong. On occasions Sustrans will chose the quietest route over the logical one. Why? I don’t know. The A5004 into Whaley Bridge is a quiet road, with a magnificent sweeping descent and stunning views of the Goyt Valley. Personally I think it’s a sensible alternative to the mapped route. There is an outstanding bike shop in Whaley, making a visit worthwhile to drool over the beautiful machines you can aspire to! Nice people too, I feel sure they would help out in an emergency.

From Whaley Bridge there are several ways back on the official route, all are easy to follow from the Sustrans map. I was in the mood for a bit of flat riding so nipped on to the canal towpath to pedal onto New Mills. If you chose this option it will be obvious when you near New Mills, be sure you leave the canal path at the first opportunity, about 100 metres before the first bridge. Head straight into the town centre (down to your right) before taking the first major left turn at traffic lights. Climb to the top and at the roundabout take the second exit to pick up the route again. There is another good and helpful bike shop on this hill. Climbing out of New Mills comes your first serious hill – WOW! This is nearly vertical and after 56 miles it hurts! At the top is a very rough section for about a ½ mile that will be difficult for those on road bikes. The bad news is there are two more climbs to Charlesworth but the first is by far the worst. Enjoy these last few miles to Charlesworth as the pub and evening meal calls. Dropping down towards Charlesworth is a very fast, winding descent. Be ready to stop quickly at the bottom before turning right on to the busy A626, a busy, fast road.

The PCW joins the Trans Pennine Trail in Charlesworth centre. The locals are used to riders and there are good choices for bed and breakfast plus a couple of OK pubs for an evening meal. Entering the village, on your left at the top of the hill, is Woodseat Lane, there are two B&Bs here - Woodseat Farm and Woodlands B&B - www.woodlandshighpeak.co.uk. Another 50 metres along the road you’ll find the magnificently stocked Dyson’s Store – after a day of seeing virtually no shops, this one is a little oasis. The village shop is run by a nice lady who knows everything about the village.

My choice of B&B was on the far side of the village just past the garden centre and nursery. I have forgotten the name! Sorry. Welcomed with a cup of tea and kit-kat, your room will be comfortable, spacious and quiet and have a large toweling bath robe. Apart from the large spider in the shower (which I didn’t notice at first! ) this is a superb B&B. For your evening meal head back into the village and chose between The Grey Mare or The George and Dragon. The Grey Mare was very noisy so I headed over the road and enjoyed a good meal, a pint of Robinsons followed by a choice of good malts for around £12. Good value.

Day Two – Charlesworth to Slaithwaite

Distance - 38 miles
Ride time - 4 hours 28 minutes
On road - 08.45 to 14.30

As a Sustrans supporter, financially and literally, I don’t like to be critical but this part of the PCW should come with a health warning. I know there are few alternatives but some are worthy of investigation. The section needs improvement – in my notes I’ll offer a few suggestions. Derby to Charlesworth has some great riding, if some dodgy signage, later you will find Appleby to Berwick to be an outstanding ride. However this section is going to challenge even the most experienced rider. You will encounter very poor signage, rough trails, unnecessary diversions, wide temperature variations and some very, very hard climbs. Study the map carefully before setting out and know where you are heading. There is no other way to put it, the cycling is going to get tough and it is unrelenting!! Although I didn’t ride beyond Slaithwaite local knowledge tells me the route will be difficult through to Hebden Bridge. Once in Hebden things improve tremendously and, again through local knowledge, I’m sure the section from Hebden to Appleby will be good, though I have only ridden parts of it.

Setting out from Charlesworth there is a good downhill spin to warm your legs up and skirt round the back of Glossop, through Hollingworth into the bottom of the famous Woodhead Pass. Signage is not good anywhere on the section all the way to Holmfirth and beyond. If in doubt follow the Trans Pennine Trail signs (for either cyclists or walkers) and use commonsense – you are going up the pass. Soon you’ll be introduced to the Longenden Trail that follows the valley bottom beside the reservoirs. I had heard a lot of this trail and had high expectations – I was bitterly disappointed. The southern end is poorly surfaced, deeply rutted with difficult short sharp descents. Having descended one is almost bound to have to push up the next short climb because the surface is again so poor. After much pushing, frustration and cursing this rider gave up on the official route just north of Crowden crossed the reservoir to ride to Woodhead summit on the A628. Anyone who knows this road will understand how frustrating the route is at this point when I say the A628 and HGVs were preferable. Beyond Crowden I can’t comment on the state of the Longenden Trail – its reputation is high so I hope it improves over the southern section.

An Alternative Route
The next time I ride Route 68 I plan to follow this alternative. In Hadfield pick up the B6105, this is a fine undulating, quiet road popular with local roadies. (I have ridden it in the opposite direction) Follow the B6105 to where it crosses Rhodeswood Reservoir. Shadowing the Longenden Trail, you’ll have tarmac beneath your wheels. At the reservoir crossing your choice is to turn right and head up the northern section of Longenden or cross the water, turn right on to the A628 for a mile before turning left on the A6024 to climb the mighty Holme Moss. From the other side Holme Moss is a Category One climb and not to be undertaken lightly (it’s not much better this side). Do not undertake this climb expecting it to be easy. The main advantage is the tarmac surface and some careful map reading in Holmbridge will take you across to Meltham and then Slaithtwaite. This misses out the descent into and hard climb out of Holmfirth.

The other alternative is to simply take the B6105 through to the A628 Woodhead Pass, climb to the top and then pick up the official route at the top of the pass. Climbing the A628 Woodhead Pass is a fine ride except for the traffic. The incline is easily manageable in a long twisting climb. At the very top as the scenery turns quickly to bleak moorland you rejoin the official route by turning left at the crossroads for Dunford Bridge.

Back on the Route
After a morning’s frustration the next few miles were a joy, heading to Holmfirth on fast sweeping roads. Cross the A628 where another short climb is followed by a fast descent towards Dunford Bridge, half way down the descent glance back to see the Sustrans sign to Winscar Reservoir. Turn around and follow the signs! Follow the road to Holmfirth where a welcome and very fine cup of tea awaits you – there are plenty to chose from. Beware of the sharp drop down into Holmfirth. The narrow road brings you into the town centre as you sweep round the last bend with about thirty metres to stop before a T-junction. Here you find the only Sustrans sign in Holmfirth. Turn right, then immediately left to head up to the main street. At the traffic lights turn right for a very fine teashop (I’ve forgotten the name) or left for the route.

A short distance on your right you will see the gloriously named Upperthong Lane – this is your route. A tough climb awaits to get back to the moors above Holmfirth and good riding through to Slaithwaite, don’t worry too much about the signage just keep going pretty much straight on to Meltham. Descend into Meltham watching for a likely looking right turn, the map says there is one – somewhere! Failing to find any sort of signage I followed my nose out of town, bore left and began a long gentle climb towards Holt Head before turning right on the B6109 (this is the official route) towards Slaithwaite. At the A62 T-junction there is no signage; turn right and then make the first left. Cycle through Slaithwaite turning left at the town end towards Wilberlee. Leaving the town you’ll see a pub called The Quiet Woman be sure to follow the road and climb the hill leaving the pub on your left. This rider didn’t and went straight on with the pub on his right – again no signs – and promptly got lost. Recognizing my error in Bradshaw I backtracked to Slaithwaite to study the map. My target for the day had been to reach Hebden Bridge where I was due to meet a friend. After six hours on the road and painfully slow progress this rider bailed out and caught the train to Manchester and then home. The route from Slaithwaite to Hebden Bridge was going to be as tough as the previous 30 or more miles and my chances of making the planned rendezvous in Hebden where slim to say the least.

If I can help anyone planning to ride the Pennine Cycleway please feel free to contact me by e-mail;
psbemail2004-cycling@yahoo.co.uk